Makara Sankranti festival a wonderful family affair blessed by a visit from the wandering ministerial Haridasu: Blog 2

 Blog series by Hindumitra Karen Dabrowska during her visit to India

January 12th, 2025. It was an auspicious time to be in Visakhapatnam where the week long winter harvest festival Makara Sankranti was in full swing.

On the day of Makara Sankranti, the sun starts its journey towards northward and transitions into the Capricorn zodiac sign, marking the commencement of Uttarayanam. Considered to be a significantly auspicious period in Hindu tradition, this day is a symbol of prosperity, spiritual awakening and growth. The sun transitioning into a northward movement is marked to bring prosperity and good fortune. Many states celebrate Sankranti as the beginning of  the harvest season, and some people take dips in the holy rivers as a way of cleansing their souls and starting anew.

January 13, is celebrated as Bhogi, dedicated to Lord Indra, is associated with the sky, lightning, weather, thunder, storms, rains, river flows, and war.  On this day people light bonfires, in front of their houses and all old clothes and stuff are burnt in the sacred fire. Houses are cleaned and decorated with 'muggu’ made of rice flour or ‘kolam’ made of rice flour paste and red mud. Cow dung cakes and pumpkin flowers are also used for decoration.

It was certainly a family affair at Sriram Bhagavatula’s family home. Sriram ji is one of the trustees of Hindumitra Foundation.  There was a peaceful atmosphere at 5.30am in Visakhapatnam as we drove through the quiet streets lit up by small and not so small bonfires outside people’s houses.

The family home was welcoming as around 30 people converged on the house and exchanged family news. It was a day for children and old people who were treated with the greatest respect. They loved the attention.  It was wonderful to see the respect and esteem in which elders are held.

The highlight of the celebration was the arrival of the Haridasu. Haridasu is a revered figure, who embarks on a tradition of visiting houses, singing songs, and accepting alms. Adorned in vibrant attire, he is a captivating sight with bangles on his hands, anklets on his feet, and a silk dhoti elegantly draped around him. A silk scarf is tied around his waist, complemented by a flower necklace adorning his neck, and a neat tilak gracing his forehead.

As the Haridasu visits homes, people eagerly offer alms in the form of old clothes, money, and food grains. There's a widespread belief that Haridasu’s melodious rendition of Sundarakanda or Bhagavatam on Sankranti day ushers in a sense of auspiciousness and new beginnings in the lives of those who listen. Some hold the belief that Bhagavan Srihari Vishnu descends from Vaikuntham in the form of Haridasu to bless those who decorate the Gobbammas (cakes made of cow dung and placed on top of muggu) in front of their homes. This tradition not only adds colour and vibrancy to the Sankranti festivities but also embodies a deep-rooted cultural and spiritual significance for the people of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana states.

The Haridasu, Appala Raju, arrived at the Sriram’s family home half walking, half skipping with an enormous all-embracing smile on his face and a twinkly in his eye. He timed his entrance perfectly as the Bhogi fire was starting to burn itself out and family members were starting their breakfast and coffee. He played a joyful tune on the tamboora (also called tanpura) a tuning instrument and his wooden cymbals complimented the music.

As per the tradition which goes back to the time of the Indian classic the Mahabharata the head of the household, a person with a pure heart took the Akshaya Patra, a pot-like vessel off the head of the Haridasu Appala Raju. Raju then sat himself down and gratefully accepted a glass of water followed by coffee.  An athletic well-built man he sometimes walked 40kms a day and only stopped singing when the vessel was taken off his head. There are 108 mantras to Lord Vishnu who Raju reveres and follows. The sound of the song had a cleansing, calming effect as the sounds transcend meaning.

“The Akshaya Patra vessel represents the infinite cosmic oneness,” Raju explained. Today (January 13th) was the last day of the month of devotion which would end at 10.30 am with a puja to Godadevi, form of Lakshmi the goddess of prosperity and Raju would resume his normal activities as a temple priest.

In times of old the kings would take care of the Haridasu but today there is no support from the government, and it may be difficult to preserve the tradition.

After giving his blessings and prayers Raju good naturedly answered my questions. He enjoyed his coffee and beamed with enthusiasm as those at the family gathering welcomed him and exchanged a few words with him. He left the household with the same pomp and ceremony as marked his arrival.

A sumptuous breakfast was served, and I benefited from the wisdom of a well-read gentleman who emphasised that religion is the husk and God is the kernel. “We are all one, all part of God he said,” with heartfelt conviction and love as he spoke of the enlightened Maata Amritanandamayi in Kerala who embraces people, Swami Rama in Himachal Pradesh and Ramana Maharshi who preaches non-duality Adwaita.

As we left the family home, we saw an adorned bull meticulously decorated with colourful clothes, ornaments, and vibrant colours.

These bulls are not just mere animals but are trained to perform various actions under the guidance of their master. From bowing down, nodding their heads to indicate yes or no, and even a bit of dancing, they exhibit a display of trained behaviour.

Many shops were closed during this festive time when nature is respected and honoured. The people of Visakhapatnam were enjoying themselves, dining out and strolling along the esplanade where historical figures smiled at them from their statues in a city described by educator Prasanna Kumar as “between the roar of the sea and the echo of the valley.