Shiva paves the way to his sacred cave

by: Hindumitra Karen Dabrowska, London

Let go, let God. This was my philosophy  on my visit to the Shiva Khori cave in Jammu. From the very beginning, it felt as though Shiva himself was guiding me with an invisible hand, each moment unfolding with a synchronicity that felt less like chance and more like a gentle summons.

While reading about the temples of Jammu, Shiva Khori seemed to call out to me — not loudly, but with the unmistakable pull of a place one is meant to visit. At the Ram temple en route, worshippers debated whether it was wise to enter the narrow one‑metre cave. Some spoke of crawling, others of bending and twisting through the tight passageways. Their words stirred a flicker of doubt in me. Was this journey truly meant for me?

Ram temple enroute to Shiv Khori

Sensing my unease, the priest smiled with a serenity that felt like a blessing in itself. “Don’t worry,” he said softly. “Shiva is calling you. He will take care of you.”

That single sentence became the thread that wove through my entire experience — a reminder that this was not merely a physical excursion, but a guided passage into something deeper.

And then there was Deepak. Was it coincidence that my driver happened to be a retired member of India’s special forces, a man who knew every sacred site in Jammu as though he had walked these paths for lifetimes? He greeted the armed temple guards like old friends, laughing with them, slipping easily into stories of his former life.

“You want to go to the cave?” he asked, already knowing the answer. “I will take you. Just climb the way I climb, and you will be alright.”

We left Jammu at 6am, the sky slowly brightening until a magnificent sunrise greeted us along the 113km drive. Breakfast was at the Chilli Hut in Ransoo, the base camp for the cave shrine. During Shivratri, this humble place welcomes nearly two million pilgrims — each one answering their own inner call. The waiter insisted on taking my photo beside a mirror framed with green chillies, which thankfully did not appear in my vegetable sandwich.

At the registration office, Rakesh Sharma from the Shiv Khori Shrine Board joined us. Horses grazed nearby, waiting for riders, but I declined — the saddle felt far too high above the earth for my liking. Instead, we began the walk along the concrete path lined with small shops selling water, snacks, and souvenirs. Rakesh spoke passionately about the improvements being made to the cave’s infrastructure,  which included the construction of  a helicopter landing pad,  urging me to visit the official website to see his work.

We paused briefly at the Ram temple, but Deepak was eager to reach the cave before the sun grew stronger and the crowds thickened. A cold drink at a food stall offered a moment of rest, though my heart ached watching the horses being tugged by their tails and struck without reason as they transported pilgrims up the sloping path.  Even more difficult was seeing men carrying women in palanquins, their bodies drenched in sweat, yet their faces composed in quiet endurance.

The 3km walk was gentle and beautiful — a tree‑lined slope with rest benches, food stalls, and a small stream with fish  flowing alongside. But the final ascent of 50 steps to the cave entrance had to be made on foot, horses and palanquins notwithstanding.

Rakesh Sharma

Inside, mobile phones and cameras were not allowed. Rakesh kindly offered a locker in his office, where a video explained the cave’s history and the naturally formed four‑foot Shivling. He hinted that I could simply take the exit route to the Shiva statue, but that was never an option. I had come for the cave — for the narrow passage, the unknown, the journey inward.

 The entrance opened into a vast hall — 20 feet wide, 22 feet high, and nearly 80 feet long — capable of holding 300 devotees. The natural formations resembled the coils of Sheshnag, the primordial serpent king, and the air felt charged with an ancient, living presence.

Then came the narrow passage. This was where Shiva’s guidance felt most tangible. Deepak moved with confidence, and I followed his footsteps with trust. At times the walls pressed close, the ceiling dipped low, and I had to slide or crouch to avoid hitting my head. Near the exit, the only way forward was to crawl on hands and knees.

Cave Entrance

At the end of the cave, priests tended to pilgrims with tenderness, offering deeply personal blessings. The Shivling itself radiated an otherworldly stillness. Above it, a natural formation resembling Kamdhenu, the divine cow, dripped water onto the lingam — a reminder of the eternal Ganga. Legend says milk once flowed here, but it turned  to water in the age of Kaliyuga.

Cave Interior

The cave’s mythology is rich: Shiva Khori, Lord Shiva’s hideout, was accidentally found by shepherds when they  were looking  for their lost sheep.  Shiva  granted a wish to the demon King Bhasmasura, that whatever he touches turns to ashes. The demon was happy with the wish  and started killing all gods one after the other. One  of gods provoked him to kill Lord Shiva himself and when Siva came to know about this he  ran from the demon  and hid  in the mountains. The cave was made  by Lord Shiva from his trishul. Lord Shiva exited the cave in a place now known as Amarnath in Kashmir. When Bhasmasur was waiting, Lord Vishnu appeared  in the form of Mohini, a beautiful dancer. By his dance moves,  Vishnu tricked Bhasmasur into placing his hand on his own head and that was the end of the demon.

The narrow passage in the cave which  leads to Amarnath cave in Kashmir  is now closed as some Sadhus who dared to use it  reportedly never returned.

Shiva Khori remains a sanctuary of peace nestled in the mountains, a place where myth, nature, and devotion intertwine.

In the quiet after the climb, as the mountains held their breath and the cave exhaled its ancient stories, I realised that  the divine meets us exactly where we are, and leads us exactly where we need to go.

About the author:

Hindumitra Karen Dabrowska lives in London, UK. She first became interested in Sanatana Dharma in 2020 after reading Autobiography of a Yogi by Paramahansa Yogananda. In 2022 she visited Babaji’s cave where Yogananda’s master was initiated into kriya yoga. She found India an enchanting, fascinating and welcoming country which she has been visiting twice a year since 2022. She then visited Rishikesh and in it the Vasishtha Cave home of Vasishtha one of the seven immortal saints. In February 2025 she felt it to be a great honor to go to the kumbh mela a very personal spiritual experience shared with millions of people. In her own words "I felt I was part of one gigantic family and we all embarked on a pilgrimage together."

In 2023 she listened to a talk at Laxmi Narayan Temple in West London by Hindumitra Dr Malladi Srinivasa Sastry, founder of Hindumitra Foundation, and was inspired by his clear presentation of the concepts of Sanatana Dharma. The talk was a condensed version of his ten-lesson course “Bring out the best in you – the Sanatana Dharma way” which she studied online. She kept in touch with Dr Malladi by email and WhatsApp and when he heard that she was planning to visit south India in January this year she was invited to Visakhapatnam to see the activities of Hindumitra. There was a fascinating visit to Dimili village where young people gave a performance of traditional dancing and art forms. Hindumitra is keen to promote the preservation of cultural traditions. She also took part in a major Hindumitra event with the theme the world is one family in Visakhapatnam public library where Hindumitra Karen ji spoke about her spiritual journey with Sanatana dharma. The programme attended by over 100 people was very full with a discussion about Hindu parenting and folk culture performances and demonstrations. Residing in UK, Hindumitra Karen ji actively contributes to the spiritual work of Hindumitra and is currently attending weekly classes on Bhagavatam by Hindumitra Dr. Malladi Srinivasa Sastry.