VISITING THE SANGAM. Kumbha mela Blog series 3/4

by Hindumitra Karen Dabrowska, London, UK

We had a plan. Get up at 5am, leave the tent by 5.30am and avoid the crowds. We would be back at the camp by 10am when the sun starts to make its heat felt.

Sangham kumbhmela.com tells us that one of the most mystical and revered aspects of the Kumbh Mela is the sacred confluence known as Sangam. Located at the meeting point of the Ganges, Yamuna, and mythical Saraswati rivers, Sangam holds profound spiritual significance for millions of pilgrims who gather during this divine event.

Sangam is not merely a geographical location but a symbol of unity and spiritual convergence. Pilgrims believe that bathing in the holy waters at Sangam during Kumbh Mela cleanses them of sins and paves the way for spiritual liberation. The confluence of these sacred rivers is considered a potent source of divine energy, and the act of taking a dip at Sangam is believed to purify the body, mind, and soul.

The spiritual ambiance at Sangam during Kumbh Mela is unparalleled. The air is filled with chants, prayers, and the collective energy of millions of devotees seeking spiritual upliftment. Pilgrims engage in various rituals, including performing pujas (ceremonial worship) and offering prayers to honour their ancestors.

Sangam becomes a celestial theatre where the physical and spiritual worlds intersect. Pilgrims, irrespective of their backgrounds, come together at this auspicious confluence to partake in the divine blessings that flow through the sacred waters. The experience of Sangam goes beyond a ritualistic bath; it is a transformative journey where individuals connect with the divine forces and experience a sense of oneness with the cosmos.

In conclusion, Sangam at Kumbh Mela is not merely a geographical meeting point of rivers; it is a sacred space where the spiritual and material realms unite. Pilgrims leave Sangam with a profound sense of spiritual rejuvenation, carrying the sanctity of this divine confluence in their hearts.

Sun rise was a very special time. An incredibly peaceful time. The sun slowly made its appearance in the sky lighting up the river. It was pleasantly cool without even a slight breeze. People emerged seemingly out of now where and started making their way to the Sangham. There was a silent sense of purpose. We passed hundreds of small cubicles – toilets. It was hard to imagine they would ever be used. The river stretched before us, the sand was easy to walk on.

The further we walked the more people we saw. It was not a crowd like the crowds I had seem in the pictures of the kumbh  and everyone had room for their private devotion and bathing. The water was coldish. Stepped in gingerly and stepped out and sat by the river bank. Time stood still. The sun gave more and more light and the dawn welcomed the new day. A chai wala was not doing very good business. It wasn’t time to drink tea but to imbibe the stillness,  commune with a greater power and shake hands with infinity.

I bought a candle and matches lovingly arranged on a bed of flowers and sent it down the river.  Tushita decided she would bathe. This meant immersing her body and  in the river head and all. The number of people taking the sacred bath increased. There was a steady stream of men and women silently and respectfully entering the water. 

Tushita emerged from the river. She was prepared with a change of clothes. A few women  surrounded her with a long cloth so she could change. Everyone gave everyone a sattvic hand. We sat by the river. It was morning now and the sun was rising over the Ganges as it had for centuries.

The sun was getting hotter and hotter and Tushita saw that I was starting to wilt. We decided to make our way back to the camp. It was a magical walk along an enchanted river bank. We reached one of the bridges for crossing the river but now crowd control was in place and the bridge was closed. What now? “We wait,” Tushita said. “For how long?” She shrugged her shoulders.  There was a small enclosure with what looked like a cooking stove and some flags with the Om sign. We sat down. Let go let God I told myself.

It was a four hour wait. We sat, slept, meditated and hoped for the best.  A steady stream of people made their way to the Sangam. A small party joined us at the shelter. I was given sweets and water and a warm welcome. An enthusiastic young man told me about his guru mixing Hindi and English,  smiling  and laughing.

Waiting for the gate to open

All of a sudden the gate to the bridge was opened. Tushita leapt up and told me to move in a commanding tone.

“They will close the bridge again in a few minutes,” she said. “Well I can always play my face and tell them I am a foreigner and can’t wait any longer in the sun.” “It might work and then again it might not,” she said

Luckily we made it to the bridge before the gate was closed and began the walk back to the camp. Motor  bikes were there tooting, weaving in and out among the people on foot. It was a jovial atmosphere. Sadhus in orange ropes hoped for money. The naga sadhus had departed for Varanasi. On February 13 the kumbh mela was drawing to an end. Last day February 26th.

We passed some stalls with water and not much else. It seemed strange there was almost nothing to buy on the way to the mela or on the way back.  A group of security men sat in a shelter up some steps and beckoned me to join them. They offered water and smiled sympathetically. Tushita kept saying not long to go now. It was in fact  a much longer walk on the way back. People kept telling me to sit down and take it easy but it was easier to walk then to stop every few minutes.

Back at the camp I sat in the cool canteen drinking tea,  waiting for the cool of the evening when the moon lit up the sky, bhajans were sung around the camp fire and the peace and calm of eternity prevailed in the camp.

About the author:

Hindumitra Karen Dabrowska lives in London, UK. She first became interested in Sanatana Dharma in 2020 after reading Autobiography of a Yogi by Paramahansa Yogananda. In 2022 she visited Babaji’s cave where Yogananda’s master was initiated into kriya yoga. She found India an enchanting, fascinating and welcoming country which she has been visiting twice a year since 2022. She then visited Rishikesh and in it the Vasishtha Cave home of Vasishtha one of the seven immortal saints. In February 2025 she felt it to be a great honor to go to the kumbh mela a very personal spiritual experience shared with millions of people. In her own words "I felt I was part of one gigantic family and we all embarked on a pilgrimage together."

In 2023 she listened to a talk at Laxmi Narayan Temple in West London by Hindumitra Dr Malladi Srinivasa Sastry, founder of Hindumitra Foundation, and was inspired by his clear presentation of the concepts of Sanatana Dharma. The talk was a condensed version of his ten-lesson course “Bring out the best in you – the Sanatana Dharma way” which she studied online. She kept in touch with Dr Malladi by email and WhatsApp and when he heard that she was planning to visit south India in January this year she was invited to Visakhapatnam to see the activities of Hindumitra. There was a fascinating visit to Dimili village where young people gave a performance of traditional dancing and art forms. Hindumitra is keen to promote the preservation of cultural traditions. She also took part in a major Hindumitra event with the theme the world is one family in Visakhapatnam public library where Hindumitra Karen ji spoke about her spiritual journey with Sanatana dharma. The programme attended by over 100 people was very full with a discussion about Hindu parenting and folk culture performances and demonstrations. Residing in UK, Hindumitra Karen ji actively contributes to the spiritual work of Hindumitra and is currently attending weekly classes on Bhagavatam by Hindumitra Dr. Malladi Srinivasa Sastry.